I was given a splendid breakfast next morning by a lively little old man, whose apparent affection for Sri Lanka reminded me of what I had found half a century back. And then I set off to explore, going first to the Cathedral which was practically next to the hotel. There was a service going on and a girl at the door who said I could not enter until I stayed to the end. But that proved a joy, for the service was beautifully sung and the order of service was so like the Anglican one so that I could follow what was happening.

When it was over there was much time to take pictures of the beautiful decorations of the building. But it was just as well that \I feasted on these, for almost everything else in Split was shut, some because it was Sunday, which was rest day there, others because buildings were under repair.

So having admired facades I set off for a museum I was assured was open, that of the works of the sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. I knew nothing about him, but found his work most interesting.

He had bought a property and built an imposing house on a promontory above the sea a mile or two outside the city. It was ideal for the ideal for the display of his work, and having walked there I found no one else except the caretaker so I looked at leisure at what was in the house and then spent time also in the beautiful garden where other works were displayed.

And then it was on to an old fort on the other side of the road a little way away which he had also bought, building inside it an attractive little chapel with beautiful wooden panels illustrating the life of Christ. After admiring those and the setting I walked down to the beach and meandered back to town, paddling at one point, as gulls bobbed on the wavelets in front of me, and then sitting in the sunshine at a café over the sea with a beer. There was a headland with an old church to look at after that, so it was getting towards sunset when I was back in town, for soup at another café as the sun set and the moon rose.

Finally I looked in on another church with a lovely little cloister, before heading back to collapse at the hotel, for that long walk though immensely pleasant had also been exhausting.

I had to be up early next morning for I had a train to catch, but my little old friend cooked breakfast for me himself since the cook was due in later. And I got my train well in time, a small one that was largely empty, which then chugged through beautiful scenery to Plaski, where Daniel was waiting to pick me up at the station.

And that was where this series began, five weeks ago. But there is more to be said, about my stay with Daniel, and then the aftermath before I left for home.

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